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Nazca

(pronounced: NAS-ka)

Nazca was one of the strangest places I visited in Peru, mostly because the experience I'd travelled there for only really made sense once I was in the air.

I took a small plane over the Nazca Lines, and I'll admit the flight itself was an adventure. 

The plane banked sharply from side to side so everyone could see the geoglyphs below, and my stomach definitely noticed.

But then the hummingbird appeared against the desert floor, followed by figures such as the spider and monkey, and suddenly I understood why people make the journey here.

What fascinated me was how subtle the lines could look from above. They weren't enormous trenches or structures rising from the ground, but carefully created markings spread across a vast, almost completely barren landscape.

Knowing that many were created roughly 1,500 to 2,000 years ago only added to the mystery.

Researchers have proposed ceremonial, astronomical, and water-related explanations for the lines, but there's still debate around their exact purposes. 

I actually liked leaving Nazca without a neat answer.

How Nazca fits into your Peru itinerary

Nazca fits naturally into an overland journey south from Lima, particularly if you're also visiting Paracas and Huacachina. I'd stay overnight rather than trying to squeeze the long journey and scenic flight into the same day.

Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca

(pronounced: wa-RAS / kor-dee-YEH-ra BLAN-ka)

Huaraz was all about the mountains for me. The city itself was useful as a base, but every morning I found myself looking beyond it towards the enormous snow-covered peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

My standout day was hiking to Laguna 69. The trail climbed through a wide valley past waterfalls and grazing cattle before becoming noticeably steeper as I gained altitude.

By that point, every uphill section felt harder than it normally would, and the final climb was a proper test.

Then I reached the lake.

Laguna 69 was an almost impossibly bright turquoise, sitting beneath glaciers and sheer mountain walls at around 4,600 metres.

I spent longer there than I'd planned, partly because the scenery was incredible and partly because I was very happy to stop walking uphill.

There are much bigger adventures around Huaraz too, including the multi-day Santa Cruz trek through the Cordillera Blanca.

What I loved most was that this part of Peru felt entirely focused on being outdoors. If hiking is one of the reasons you travel, I'd make room for Huaraz.

How Huaraz fits into your Peru itinerary

Huaraz is a substantial detour north from Lima, so I'd treat it as a dedicated mountain stop rather than squeezing it into the classic southern Peru circuit. Allow at least four nights, and longer if you want to complete one of the region's multi-day treks.

Chachapoyas and Kuélap

(pronounced: cha-cha-POH-yas / KWEH-lap)

Chachapoyas showed me a side of Peru I hadn't really associated with the country before. 

Instead of dry Andean mountains, I found misty green ridges, thick cloud forest, waterfalls, and archaeological sites hidden among the hills.

Kuélap was the place I most wanted to see. Built by the Chachapoya culture centuries before the Incas arrived, the enormous stone complex sits high on a mountain ridge. 

I took the cable car up, and watching the landscape unfold beneath me was part of the experience. Once there, I explored the huge defensive walls and distinctive circular structures while clouds drifted across the surrounding mountains.

I also made time for Gocta Waterfall. The hike took me through lush forest and farmland before the falls eventually appeared across the valley, dropping dramatically down the mountainside.

It was a completely different experience from Kuélap and gave me another reason to stay several days rather than rushing through.

What I enjoyed most was combining archaeology with proper outdoor exploration. Around Chachapoyas, the journey through the landscape often felt as memorable as the sites themselves.

How Chachapoyas and Kuélap fit into your Peru itinerary

Chachapoyas requires a dedicated detour into northern Peru, so I'd allow at least three or four nights for Kuélap, Gocta, and the surrounding area.

It makes particular sense as part of a longer northern Peru itinerary rather than trying to add it to a short Lima–Cusco–Machu Picchu trip.

Lima

(pronounced: LEE-ma)

I could happily have planned my entire time in Lima around food. Peru's capital has an extraordinary restaurant scene, but one of the meals I remember most was also one of the simplest: ceviche for lunch.

The fish arrived in chunky, tender pieces, swimming in sharp, citrusy leche de tigre with red onion, chilli and coriander. The first mouthful was intensely fresh and acidic, followed almost immediately by the heat of the chilli. 

On the side, sweet potato softened that sharpness, while the large kernels of Peruvian corn added a completely different texture. It was bright, spicy, salty and refreshing all at once.

Paired with a cold pisco sour, it was the meal that made me understand why people talk about eating their way through Lima.

Thankfully, I did occasionally stop eating. 

I walked the clifftops around Miraflores overlooking the Pacific and spent time in Barranco, where colourful street art, old mansions, cafés and bars gave the neighbourhood a more creative feel.

I'd originally thought of Lima as the gateway to Peru. I left thinking it deserved to be a destination in its own right.

How Lima fits into your Peru itinerary

Lima is the natural starting point for most Peru itineraries. I'd spend at least two nights here before heading south towards Paracas and Nazca, north towards Huaraz, or flying into the Andes for the next part of the trip.

Colca Canyon

(pronounced: KOL-ka)

I'd seen plenty of incredible landscapes by the time I reached Colca Canyon, but standing on the edge and watching an Andean condor rise out of the gorge below was something else entirely.

I went to the Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint early in the morning, when the birds use the warming air currents to gain height. 

At first I was staring into what seemed like an empty canyon. Then a condor appeared below us, circling upwards almost effortlessly.

Eventually it swept past surprisingly close, and seeing its enormous wingspan against the canyon walls gave me a completely different sense of its size.

The condors were the highlight, but I loved the wider Colca Valley too. Ancient agricultural terraces covered the mountainsides, while small villages and white churches broke up the otherwise enormous landscape. 

I also found that staying in the valley made the experience feel much less like a quick sightseeing excursion from Arequipa.

After a day of viewpoints, winding mountain roads and walking, soaking in one of the valley's natural hot springs was a pretty perfect way to finish.

How Colca Canyon fits into your Peru itinerary

I'd visit Colca Canyon after Arequipa and spend two nights in the valley. From there, you can return to Arequipa or continue towards Lake Titicaca, making it a natural part of an overland journey through southern Peru.

The Peruvian Amazon

(pronounced: PWEHR-toh mal-doh-NA-doh)

The Peruvian Amazon was one of those places where I quickly realised how little control I had over what I might see. I could go looking for wildlife, but the rainforest ultimately decided what showed up.

I based my experience around Puerto Maldonado, which was surprisingly easy to reach from Cusco. From there, travelling by boat into the jungle felt like crossing into another Peru entirely.

The mountains disappeared, the air became hot and heavy, and seemingly every patch of forest contained something moving or calling.

The wildlife was obviously the highlight. I watched brightly coloured macaws gather around a clay lick, spotted monkeys moving through the canopy, and went out after dark looking for the reflected eyes of caimans along the water. 

I loved the early mornings most, when the river was still and the jungle seemed ridiculously loud with birds and insects.

Staying at a jungle lodge also made a huge difference. Instead of visiting the Amazon for a few hours, I woke up surrounded by it and experienced how dramatically the forest changed between dawn, daytime and night.

How the Peruvian Amazon fits into your Peru itinerary

Puerto Maldonado works particularly well after Cusco because you can fly between them and add three or four nights in the rainforest without a huge detour.

I'd choose Iquitos instead if the Amazon itself were a major focus of the trip and I wanted a deeper river-based experience.

Lake Titicaca

(pronounced: tee-tee-KA-ka)

Lake Titicaca was even more striking than I'd expected. At nearly 3,800 metres above sea level, the water was an incredibly deep blue, and on a clear day I could see mountains stretching across the horizon.

I travelled onto the lake from Puno and visited the floating Uros islands first. 

Walking on them was an experience in itself. The layers of totora reeds felt soft and slightly springy beneath my feet, and seeing how the same reeds were used for homes, boats and handicrafts gave me a much better understanding of life on the lake.

I enjoyed getting farther away from Puno even more. Taquile felt quieter, with terraced hillsides, stone paths and wide views across the water. 

I also found its textile traditions fascinating, particularly learning how weaving and knitting remain an important part of local culture.

Spending the night on an island was what turned Titicaca from a sightseeing stop into something much more personal for me. 

Once the day-trippers had gone, the lake became incredibly peaceful, and watching the light disappear across the water was one of my favourite memories from southern Peru.

How Lake Titicaca fits into your Peru itinerary

I'd place Lake Titicaca between Arequipa and Cusco on a longer southern Peru route, ideally allowing two nights rather than rushing through Puno. It's also a natural crossing point if you're continuing into Bolivia.

Arequipa

(pronounced: a-reh-KEE-pa)

Arequipa was one of my favourite cities to simply wander around. Much of the historic centre is built from pale volcanic sillar stone, and in the sunshine the buildings almost seemed to glow. 

The Plaza de Armas was particularly beautiful, especially with the cone of Misti rising behind the cathedral.

My highlight was Santa Catalina Monastery. I expected a conventional historic building, but once inside I found an entire maze of narrow streets, courtyards and little plazas.

The deep blue and terracotta walls made it one of the most colourful places I visited in Peru, and I spent far longer exploring it than I'd planned.

I also ate extremely well in Arequipa. One thing I highly recommend trying is queso helado, the city's traditional frozen dessert. Despite the name, which translates as "frozen cheese", there's no cheese in it. 

It's a creamy, ice cream-like dessert traditionally made with milk, sugar, cinnamon, coconut and spices such as cloves. I loved the combination of sweetness, cinnamon and coconut, especially after walking around in the afternoon sun.

Arequipa gave me history, architecture and food without ever feeling rushed.

How Arequipa fits into your Peru itinerary

Arequipa fits perfectly into a southern Peru route, particularly after Nazca or before Lake Titicaca. I'd spend two or three nights here before continuing into Colca Canyon, which is the natural next stop.

(pronounced: KOOS-koh)

Cusco was somewhere I initially thought of as the gateway to Machu Picchu, but it quickly became one of my favourite destinations in Peru in its own right.

I loved walking around the Plaza de Armas and through San Blas, but what fascinated me most was seeing Inca stonework incorporated directly into later Spanish buildings.

At Sacsayhuamán, the scale became even more impressive. Some of the stones were enormous, yet they fit together with extraordinary precision.

I also spent time exploring the Sacred Valley, and I was glad I didn't treat it as a single rushed day trip.

I wandered through Pisac, saw the geometric salt pools at Maras, and explored Ollantaytambo, where huge agricultural terraces climb the mountainside above the town.

What I particularly liked about Ollantaytambo was that Inca history wasn't confined to an archaeological site. I could walk along narrow streets laid out centuries ago, with water still flowing through channels beside them.

The valley also sits lower than Cusco, so spending time there gave me a gentler introduction to the altitude before continuing higher into the Andes.

How Cusco and the Sacred Valley fit into your Peru itinerary

I'd give Cusco and the Sacred Valley at least four nights before Machu Picchu, splitting my time between the city and the valley rather than basing myself entirely in Cusco.

Ollantaytambo is especially convenient because trains to Machu Picchu depart from there, making it an easy final stop before continuing to Aguas Calientes.

Machu Picchu

(pronounced: MA-choo PEEK-choo)

I'd seen the classic photograph of Machu Picchu hundreds of times before I went, so part of me wondered whether the reality could possibly match the image. It did.

My first proper view across the terraces towards Huayna Picchu stopped me in my tracks. 

Clouds were still hanging around the surrounding mountains, and as they shifted, more of the ruins and impossibly steep landscape appeared. It was one of those rare travel moments when I didn't immediately reach for my camera. I just wanted to look at it.

Walking through the site made it even more impressive. From a distance, Machu Picchu looked almost impossibly picturesque. 

Up close, I started noticing the carefully fitted stonework, temples, plazas, agricultural terraces and water channels that made this a functioning Inca settlement rather than simply a beautiful ruin.

The setting was what stayed with me most, though. Mountains dropped steeply towards the Urubamba River in almost every direction, making the entire city seem improbably balanced on its ridge.

Machu Picchu was Peru's most famous attraction, but for me, it absolutely earned that reputation.

How Machu Picchu fits into your Peru itinerary

I'd visit after spending several days acclimatising in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, with Ollantaytambo making a convenient departure point for the train.

Staying overnight in Aguas Calientes also gave me more flexibility than trying to travel from Cusco, visit the ruins and return all in one day.

Peru covers everything from Pacific desert and Amazon rainforest to some of the highest mountains in the Andes, so I wouldn't try to connect all 10 destinations in one trip. 

For a first visit, I'd focus on southern Peru, where many of the country's biggest highlights connect naturally, and use domestic flights when they save a full day of overland travel.

Peru itinerary: 7 days

Why this route? For a Peru itinerary of 7 days, I'd stick to the essentials rather than spend too much time travelling.

You'll get Lima's brilliant food scene, Inca history in Cusco, the archaeological sites and mountain scenery of the Sacred Valley, and enough time to experience Machu Picchu without treating it as a rushed day trip.

*I'd fly from Lima to Cusco and spend the first day at altitude taking things relatively slowly. If possible, I'd also spend a night in Ollantaytambo before Machu Picchu rather than travelling all the way from Cusco that morning. 

Peru itinerary: 10 days

Why this route? For a Peru itinerary of 10 days, I think this strikes a good balance between cities, food, wildlife, history and mountain scenery.

You'll experience Lima and Arequipa before seeing Andean condors in Colca Canyon, then finish with the Inca sites around Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

*I wouldn't add Lake Titicaca to this itinerary unless you're comfortable travelling quite quickly. I'd rather have time to properly enjoy Arequipa, Colca and the Cusco region than collect another destination with only a few hours there.

Peru itinerary: 14 days

Why this route? For a Peru itinerary of 14 days, I'd use the extra time to show just how varied the country is.

You'll go from Lima's Pacific coastline to Arequipa and Colca Canyon, cross the high-altitude landscapes around Lake Titicaca, explore the heart of the Inca Empire, visit Machu Picchu, and finish surrounded by rainforest and wildlife in the Amazon.

*I wouldn't try to squeeze Nazca, Huaraz or Chachapoyas into these itineraries as well. Nazca works particularly well on a longer overland journey down the coast, while Huaraz and Chachapoyas both deserve dedicated detours. If trekking were my main priority, I'd build a different Peru itinerary around Huaraz rather than forcing it into the classic southern route. 

Why Peru deserves more than one trip

Peru is one of those countries where I quickly realised that Machu Picchu was only a small part of what made it worth exploring.

Some of my favourite experiences felt like they belonged to completely different trips, from eating ceviche in Lima and watching condors soar over Colca Canyon to hiking beneath glaciers near Huaraz and waking up surrounded by wildlife in the Amazon.

What amazed me was how dramatically Peru changed as I travelled through it.

I found Pacific desert, snow-covered Andes, high-altitude lakes, cloud forest, enormous canyons, ancient cities and tropical rainforest, alongside regional food and cultures that changed with the landscape.

If it's your first visit, don't feel like you need to see all 10 places. I'd choose a route that gives you time to properly experience each stop, then save northern Peru, Huaraz, the Amazon or another region for a trip of its own.

FAQs about visiting Peru

Ready to explore Peru? Optimise Travel is here to help

Peru packs an incredible amount into one country, and deciding how to divide your time between its ancient Inca sites, Andean mountains, Amazon rainforest, desert landscapes, historic cities, and world-famous food scene can be surprisingly difficult.

At Optimise Travel, we create personalized travel itineraries based on your interests, travel style, and budget.

Whether you're dreaming of exploring Cusco and the Sacred Valley, finally seeing Machu Picchu, eating your way through Lima, watching condors in Colca Canyon, hiking beneath the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, or heading deep into the Peruvian Amazon, we'll help you build an itinerary that makes the most of your time.

If you'd like help planning your trip to Peru, click here to learn more about our concierge travel services.

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Filadelfia and the Chaco

(pronounced: fee-la-DEL-fya / CHA-koh)

The Chaco gave me a completely different experience of Paraguay. 

The landscape was vast and incredibly flat, with dusty roads running through scrub, grassland, and wetlands that seemed to continue indefinitely.

Some of the best birdwatching I've done anywhere was here. I saw greater rheas striding through the open landscape and colourful toco toucans, along with so many other species that I quickly stopped putting my camera away between sightings. 

Mammals are harder to spot, but armadillos, peccaries, giant anteaters, and even jaguars live within the wider Chaco.

I based myself around Filadelfia, which was fascinating in its own right.

The orderly Mennonite town felt almost improbable surrounded by so much wilderness, and learning how these communities adapted to such a harsh environment added another dimension to my visit.

You can explore parts of the Chaco on guided wildlife safaris or take a self-drive safari if you're comfortable with remote roads and long distances.

I preferred having a guide for wildlife spotting, especially because experienced local eyes picked out things I would have driven straight past.

For me, this was Paraguay at its wildest.

How Filadelfia and the Chaco fit into your Paraguay itinerary

The Chaco is a substantial detour from Paraguay's more conventional eastern route, so I'd treat it as a dedicated 2–3-night trip from Asunción rather than squeezing it between other stops. It's particularly worth the journey if wildlife and birdwatching are priorities.

Concepción

(pronounced: kon-sep-see-OHN)

Concepción was one of those places where I enjoyed having very little on my schedule. Once an important river port, the city still had colourful old buildings and busy local streets, but life seemed to revolve around the wide Río Paraguay.

Walking along the riverfront was lovely, particularly later in the day when the temperature dropped and boats moved slowly across the brown water. 

We also took a boat tour, which ended up being my favourite way to experience the area. From the water, I got a much better sense of just how important the river still is for communities throughout northern Paraguay.

I also hadn't realised how big sportfishing was here until I arrived. There were plenty of fishing charters heading out onto the river, with anglers coming in search of species such as dorado and surubí.

Even though fishing wasn't the main reason for my visit, it was interesting seeing that side of Concepción.

Between the river, older architecture, markets, and relaxed pace, I found it an easy place to spend a couple of nights before continuing north.

How Concepción fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Concepción makes the most sense as a northern stop after Asunción and can also be used as a jumping-off point for journeys farther up the Río Paraguay. It pairs particularly well with a longer itinerary exploring Paraguay's more remote northern regions.

Ybycuí National Park

(pronounced: ee-bee-KWEE)

Ybycuí National Park gave me one of my favourite hiking days in Paraguay. After spending so much time travelling through open landscapes and cities, I loved getting beneath the canopy and properly exploring on foot.

The trails took me through dense Atlantic Forest, with enormous trees overhead, birds calling from the canopy, and butterflies appearing along the more open sections. 

It was warm and humid enough that I worked up a sweat fairly quickly, but the waterfalls scattered through the park gave me plenty of excuses to stop.

What I particularly enjoyed was that the hiking wasn't about reaching one enormous viewpoint. Instead, the scenery kept changing as I followed forest paths between streams, rocky sections, waterfalls, and natural swimming holes.

It made the whole day feel like an exploration rather than a march towards a single destination.

I also passed the ruins of La Rosada, an old ironworks hidden among the greenery. It was an unexpected bit of Paraguayan history in the middle of a hiking day, but for me, the forest and waterfalls were still the real highlights.

How Ybycuí National Park fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Ybycuí is roughly a three-hour drive from Asunción, making it possible as a long day trip. I'd include it between the capital and southern Paraguay if you're continuing towards Encarnación and the Jesuit missions.

Villarrica

(pronounced: vee-ya-REE-ka)

Villarrica was one of the quieter stops on my Paraguay trip, and I thought that suited it perfectly. I didn't come here looking for major attractions. 

I came to experience a smaller Paraguayan city and see a little more of the countryside away from the usual travel route.

I spent time wandering around the leafy centre, passing the cathedral and older buildings before stopping around the main plaza. 

The pace was noticeably gentler than Asunción, and sitting in the shade with a cold tereré felt like a very appropriate way to spend part of the afternoon.

The countryside surrounding Villarrica was just as enjoyable. Rolling green farmland replaced the flatter landscapes I'd seen elsewhere, and this is an important yerba mate-growing region. 

Seeing where something I'd encountered constantly throughout Paraguay was actually grown gave me a much better appreciation for how deeply mate and tereré are woven into everyday life here.

There wasn't one blockbuster sight that defined Villarrica for me. Instead, I enjoyed the combination of rural scenery, local culture, and having enough time to wander without feeling like I needed to rush anywhere.

How Villarrica fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Villarrica works nicely as an overnight stop while travelling south from Asunción towards Encarnación. It can also be paired with nearby Independencia and the surrounding Guairá countryside if you want to spend longer exploring rural Paraguay.

Areguá

(pronounced: a-reh-GWA)

Areguá was one of the easiest escapes I made from Asunción, but within a short time I felt much farther from the capital. 

I spent most of my visit simply wandering, which worked particularly well here.

Ceramics were everywhere. Shops and roadside stalls spilled over with colourful pots, bowls, figures, and decorative pieces, and I enjoyed browsing them almost as much as the galleries tucked inside some of the town's older buildings. 

The cobbled streets and colonial architecture gave the centre plenty of character, especially around the historic church overlooking the town.

I also walked down towards Lake Ypacaraí, where the pace became even quieter. The combination of lake views, old streets, and small workshops made Areguá feel quite different from anywhere else I'd visited in Paraguay.

I was especially glad to visit during strawberry season. Vendors were selling strawberries and strawberry-based treats throughout town, so naturally I had to try a few. 

Between those and the ceramics, I left Areguá with considerably more than I arrived with.

How Areguá fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Areguá is an easy half-day or full-day trip from Asunción and doesn't require rearranging your wider Paraguay itinerary. You can also combine it with other towns around Lake Ypacaraí for a longer escape from the capital.

San Bernardino

(pronounced: san ber-nar-DEE-noh)

San Bernardino showed me a much more playful side of Paraguay. Known locally as San Ber, this lakeside town has been a summer escape from Asunción for generations, and I could understand the appeal almost immediately.

I enjoyed walking through the leafy streets and spotting some of the older summer homes, many of which reflect the town's German heritage. 

But most of my time naturally gravitated towards Lake Ypacaraí. The waterfront was the place to be, particularly towards the end of the day when the temperature eased, and more people came out.

There's plenty to do on the water, with boats, jet skis, and other watersports adding to the holiday atmosphere. 

I was equally happy simply walking along the lakeside and finding somewhere to sit with a drink. Sunset was my favourite time here, when the lake caught the changing light and San Ber really started coming alive.

I visited for the atmosphere rather than sightseeing, and that was exactly what made it fun. It gave me a chance to see how Paraguayans themselves enjoy their summer holidays.

How San Bernardino fits into your Paraguay itinerary

San Bernardino is only about an hour from Asunción and pairs particularly well with nearby Areguá for a Lake Ypacaraí trip. I'd stay overnight in San Ber during summer if you want to experience the evening atmosphere rather than returning straight to the capital.

Ciudad del Este and Itaipú

(pronounced: see-oo-DAD del ESS-teh / eye-tah-EE-poo)

Ciudad del Este was easily one of the most hectic places I visited in Paraguay. 

The streets around the commercial centre were packed with shops, traffic, vendors, and people crossing between Paraguay and Brazil, and it was a huge contrast to the quieter towns I'd visited elsewhere in the country.

My main reason for coming, though, was Itaipú Dam. I'd seen the statistics beforehand, but they didn't prepare me for the sheer scale of it. 

Touring the complex and looking across this enormous structure spanning the Paraná River made it much easier to appreciate what an extraordinary engineering project it was.

I also made time for Monday Falls, just outside Ciudad del Este.

The waterfalls tumble through a surprisingly green setting, and I enjoyed seeing one of Paraguay's own major waterfalls rather than immediately crossing the border for its much more famous neighbour.

That border location is a big part of Ciudad del Este's appeal. Brazil is directly across the Paraná, Argentina is nearby, and Iguazú Falls is within easy reach. I found the city less about slowing down and more about using its energy and location to explore.

How Ciudad del Este and Itaipú fit into your Paraguay itinerary

Ciudad del Este works particularly well near the beginning or end of a southern Paraguay route, especially if you're combining Paraguay with Brazil or Argentina.

I'd allow at least one night for Itaipú and Monday Falls, then continue across the border if Iguazú Falls is part of your wider South America itinerary.

Encarnación

(pronounced: en-kar-na-see-OHN)

I hadn't expected one of my favourite beach days in Paraguay to happen in a country without a coastline, but Encarnación delivered exactly that.

The city sits beside the broad Paraná River, with sandy urban beaches that become gathering places as soon as the temperature climbs.

I spent a lazy afternoon around Playa San José, alternating between the sand and walks along the modern Costanera. Cafés lined the shore, people swam and sunbathed, and views stretched across the water toward Argentina. 

By early evening, I understood why Encarnación has become such a popular summer escape.

The city gets even livelier during carnival season. Encarnación hosts Paraguay's biggest carnival, with elaborate costumes, dancing, drums, and huge parades filling the Sambódromo.

I loved that it felt like a celebration rooted in the city rather than an event staged primarily for tourists.

What made Encarnación especially useful was the combination. I could enjoy the beaches and nightlife while also having some of Paraguay's most important historic sites within easy reach.

How Encarnación fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Encarnación is the ideal base for visiting the nearby Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesús and fits naturally into a southern Paraguay road trip. It's also directly connected with Posadas in Argentina, making it an easy place to continue a multi-country itinerary.

The Jesuit Missions

(pronounced: treeh-nee-DAD / heh-SOOS)

The Jesuit Missions were some of the most memorable historic sites I visited in Paraguay. Trinidad and Jesús sit among green countryside, and I loved the contrast between the deep red stone of the ruins and the landscape surrounding them.

Trinidad was the more impressive of the two in scale. I wandered through the remains of the enormous church, plazas, living quarters, and workshops, but it was the details that kept catching my attention. 

Carved angels, fragments of decorative stonework, and other surviving features made it much easier to imagine the craftsmanship that once went into the mission.

Jesús had a different atmosphere. The mission was never completed, and walking through its huge roofless church felt quieter and more haunting.

Visiting both helped me understand the scale of the Jesuit-Guaraní mission system and the communities that developed here during the 17th and 18th centuries.

I stayed for Trinidad's evening sound-and-light experience, and I'm glad I did. Seeing the ruins illuminated after dark completely changed their atmosphere and was a brilliant way to finish the day.

How the Jesuit Missions fit into your Paraguay itinerary

Trinidad and Jesús are roughly 30 minutes from Encarnación, so I'd use the city as a base and dedicate a full day to the missions. They fit naturally into a southern Paraguay route before continuing east towards Ciudad del Este or back north towards Asunción.

Asunción

(pronounced: a-soon-see-OHN)

Asunción was where Paraguay really came together for me. The city wasn't polished in the way some South American capitals are, but that became part of what I enjoyed about it.

Elegant old buildings sat beside colourful street art, modern cafés, and faded mansions, while the Río Paraguay was never far away.

I spent time exploring the historic centre and walking along the Costanera, with the pink Palacio de los López one of the city's standout landmarks. Mercado Cuatro was a completely different experience. 

It was busy, noisy, and packed with everything from food and clothing to household goods, and I loved simply wandering through it.

Food and music ended up being just as memorable. I tried chipa, the wonderfully chewy cheese bread I kept encountering throughout Paraguay, along with sopa paraguaya, which amusingly isn't a soup at all but a dense corn and cheese bread.

One evening, I listened to live Paraguayan harp music while people around me shared food and drank tereré. It was such a simple experience, but it became one of my favourite memories of Asunción.

How Asunción fits into your Paraguay itinerary

Asunción is the natural starting point for most Paraguay itineraries and has good connections to destinations throughout the country.

I'd spend a few days here before heading south towards Villarrica and Encarnación, east towards Ciudad del Este, or north into the Chaco.

Paraguay is relatively compact compared with some of its South American neighbours, but I found that the distances between its main regions still deserved some thought.

Paraguay itinerary: 3 days

Why this route? If Paraguay is one stop on a larger South American trip, this is where I'd spend three days.

Two days gives you time for Asunción's historic centre, Mercado Cuatro, Costanera, food, and nightlife, while the final day offers an easy trip to Areguá and San Bernardino around Lake Ypacaraí. 

You'll get a taste of Paraguay without spending a large part of your limited time travelling between regions.

*If your wider South America itinerary takes you through southern Brazil or northern Argentina instead, Encarnación and the Jesuit Missions could make a good alternative three-day introduction to Paraguay.

Paraguay itinerary: 2 weeks

Why this route? Two weeks gave me enough time to see how varied Paraguay really is.

This route combines Asunción and the Lake Ypacaraí area with wildlife and birdwatching in the Chaco, river life in Concepción, rural southern Paraguay, the beaches of Encarnación, the UNESCO-listed Jesuit Missions, and the enormous Itaipú Dam.

*I haven't included Ybycuí National Park in the core route because fitting all 10 places into two weeks would start to make the trip feel rushed. If hiking is a priority, I'd swap Concepción or one of the Chaco nights for a full day at Ybycuí while travelling south from Asunción.

Why Paraguay deserves more than a quick stop

Paraguay was one of those countries where I found the more time I gave it, the more interesting it became.

Some of my favourite experiences happened in completely different corners of the country, from birdwatching in the Chaco and boating along the Río Paraguay to hiking through Ybycuí National Park and exploring the Jesuit Missions near Encarnación.

What I enjoyed was seeing how much existed beyond Asunción. I found quiet country towns, lakeside resorts, sandy river beaches, enormous wilderness, waterfalls, and places where Guaraní culture remained a visible part of everyday life.

If Paraguay is part of a larger South American trip, a few days can give you a good introduction. But if you have the time, I'd stay longer and explore beyond the capital. This was a country that rewarded me for not rushing through it.

FAQs about visiting Paraguay

Ready to explore Paraguay? Optimise Travel is here to help

Paraguay may receive fewer visitors than its South American neighbours, but deciding how to combine its cities, historic missions, rivers, national parks, lakeside towns, and remote wilderness still takes some careful planning.

At Optimise Travel, we create personalized travel itineraries based on your interests, travel style, and budget.

Whether you're dreaming of exploring Asunción, birdwatching in the Chaco, hiking through Ybycuí National Park, relaxing beside Lake Ypacaraí, discovering the Jesuit Missions, or experiencing river life in Encarnación and Concepción, we'll help you build an itinerary that makes the most of your time.

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Tarija

(pronounced: ta-REE-ha)

After spending time at Bolivia's higher elevations, I really enjoyed arriving in Tarija and finding myself surrounded by green vineyards and warmer valley scenery.

Wine was naturally my focus here. Tarija is the center of Bolivia's wine industry, and many of the vineyards sit at roughly 1,600–2,000 meters above sea level. 

I spent a day visiting bodegas outside the city, and I loved how informal the experience felt. Tastings weren't something to rush through. There was time to talk about the wines, learn about high-altitude growing, and enjoy the countryside between stops.

Tannat and Syrah were two reds I particularly enjoyed, but Tarija also properly introduced me to singani, Bolivia's distinctive grape spirit. I found it surprisingly aromatic compared with many stronger spirits I've tried.

Back in town, I enjoyed wandering around the leafy plazas and stopping for food without having a packed sightseeing schedule to work through.

Tarija isn't really about major landmarks for me. The vineyards, local flavors, warm weather, and easy rhythm of the city were the experience.

How Tarija fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Tarija works best as a dedicated southern stop, particularly if you're also visiting Sucre or continuing toward Argentina. Because of the distances involved, I'd fly rather than try to squeeze it into an already busy overland route.

Cochabamba

(pronounced: koh-cha-BAM-ba)

I came to Cochabamba hungry, which turned out to be exactly the right approach. 

The city has a serious reputation for food, but what I liked was how little ceremony seemed to surround it. Eating well here could mean pulling up a chair at a simple local restaurant or ordering something from a busy market stall.

One dish I particularly enjoyed was silpancho, a Cochabamba specialty that arrives as an enormous plate of rice and potatoes topped with a thin, breaded piece of beef, fried egg, and a fresh tomato and onion salsa. 

It wasn't delicate, but after a morning of exploring, it was exactly the kind of filling Bolivian lunch I wanted.

I also spent time wandering through La Cancha, where seemingly endless stalls sold everything from fruit and spices to clothing and household goods. It gave me a much better glimpse of everyday life in the city than ticking off conventional attractions.

For the big view, I headed up to Cristo de la Concordia, which overlooks Cochabamba and the surrounding green valley. But food was still the part I remembered most.

How Cochabamba fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Cochabamba sits naturally between La Paz and Sucre and works well as a two-night stop while traveling through central Bolivia. I'd include it particularly if food and local markets are a priority.

Santa Cruz

(pronounced: SAN-ta KROOS)

Santa Cruz gave me a chance to experience Bolivia without constantly thinking about altitude. After time in the Andes, I immediately noticed the heat, humidity, palm trees, and much flatter landscape.

I started around Plaza 24 de Septiembre, where the cathedral and older buildings preserve some of the city's historic character despite the huge modern metropolis that has grown around them.

I enjoyed grabbing a cold drink and sitting in the shade here, watching the plaza rather than rushing off to another attraction.

But I found the surrounding region more interesting than Santa Cruz's city sights. 

I took a trip toward Samaipata, where El Fuerte sits on a hilltop overlooking the eastern foothills of the Andes. The enormous carved rock has a complicated history, with the site occupied by different cultures before eventually becoming an Inca settlement.

The journey there was part of what I enjoyed. Leaving the hot lowlands and climbing into greener, hillier countryside showed me just how quickly Bolivia's geography can change.

I'd use Santa Cruz primarily as a comfortable gateway to exploring this part of the country.

How Santa Cruz fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Santa Cruz works well at the beginning or end of an eastern Bolivia route, particularly if you're flying domestically. From here, I'd continue toward Samaipata or use the city as a gateway to Bolivia's lowland national parks.

Tiwanaku

(pronounced: tee-wa-NA-koo)

I knew Bolivia's Inca history before my trip, but Tiwanaku took me much further back. 

This civilization flourished around Lake Titicaca centuries before the Inca Empire, and knowing that changed how I looked at the ruins as I walked around them.

The Gate of the Sun was the monument I most wanted to see, but I spent longer at the Semi-Subterranean Temple.

Its stone walls are embedded with dozens of carved heads, each with slightly different features, and I found myself walking slowly around, trying to pick out the individual faces.

Enormous stone blocks and monoliths hinted at how sophisticated Tiwanaku once was. Much of the original city has disappeared, so I found that understanding what I was looking at required a little imagination.

Having someone explain the site's history made a huge difference.

The Altiplano setting added to the experience. The landscape stretched away almost completely flat, with that intense high-altitude light making the ruins feel remarkably exposed.

Tiwanaku wasn't about grand scale for me. I enjoyed it because it added an entirely different chapter to my understanding of Bolivia.

How Tiwanaku fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Tiwanaku is an easy day or half-day trip from La Paz. It also fits naturally into the journey west toward Lake Titicaca, so I'd combine the two rather than treating it as a separate detour.

Rurrenabaque and the Amazon

(pronounced: roo-reh-na-BA-keh)

Flying into Rurrenabaque was one of those journeys where I spent most of the flight looking out the window. 

Leaving the mountains behind and watching the landscape turn into seemingly endless green rainforest gave me a completely different perspective on Bolivia.

From Rurrenabaque, I explored two sides of the Amazon. Madidi National Park was the classic jungle experience I had imagined, with dense vegetation, enormous trees, noisy insects, and boat journeys along brown rivers.

I loved how much of the wildlife there was heard before it was actually seen.

The pampas were almost the opposite. The open wetlands made wildlife much easier to spot, and I saw capybaras, caimans, monkeys, and an incredible variety of birds from the boat. Seeing pink river dolphins surface nearby was my favorite moment.

What stayed with me most, though, was being on the river around dusk. As the light faded, the jungle seemed to get louder rather than quieter.

For me, Rurrenabaque was less about ticking off individual animals and more about spending several days completely immersed in the Amazon environment.

How Rurrenabaque fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Rurrenabaque pairs naturally with La Paz, with flights making the transition from the Altiplano to the Amazon surprisingly quick. I'd allow at least three nights so the journey feels like a proper Amazon experience rather than a rushed excursion.

Potosí

(pronounced: poh-toh-SEE)

Potosí was one of the places in Bolivia where I found the history impossible to separate from what I was seeing around me. 

Cerro Rico looms over the city, and knowing how much silver was extracted from that mountain made the grand churches and colonial buildings below feel very different.

At its height, Potosí became enormously wealthy under Spanish rule, but that wealth came at a devastating human cost for Indigenous and enslaved workers. I found that contrast particularly striking while walking through the historic center.

The Casa Nacional de la Moneda helped put much of that history into context. This former royal mint once processed silver from Cerro Rico, and I enjoyed seeing the old machinery, coins, and enormous wooden mechanisms that remain inside.

Visiting the mines was much harder. They're still active workplaces, and the cramped tunnels and difficult conditions made the experience uncomfortable in a way I think it should be.

I left with far more respect for the people who continue to make their living inside the mountain.

Potosí wasn't my easiest stop in Bolivia, physically or emotionally, but it was one of the most meaningful.

How Potosí fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Potosí fits particularly well between Sucre and Uyuni, making it a useful historical stop before heading toward the salt flats. I'd spend two nights rather than rushing straight through.

Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol

(pronounced: tee-tee-KA-ka)

Lake Titicaca was even bluer than I expected. I got my first proper sense of its scale around Copacabana, but Isla del Sol was where I really understood why this lake plays such an important role in Andean history and mythology.

Once I arrived on the island, everything became wonderfully simple. There are no cars, so I explored on foot along stone paths that climbed between small communities, old Inca sites, agricultural terraces, and viewpoints over the water.

Walking high along the island was my favourite experience. The lake seemed to stretch forever, and on a clear day I could see the snowy Cordillera Real rising in the distance. 

I stopped constantly, partly to admire the view and partly because walking uphill at around 4,000 metres demanded a slower pace.

I was glad I stayed overnight rather than catching a boat straight back. After the day visitors left, Isla del Sol became much quieter.

Watching the light change across Lake Titicaca that evening was one of those simple travel moments I didn't need to fill with anything else.

For me, the island deserved time rather than a rushed sightseeing visit.

How Lake Titicaca and Isla del Sol fit into your Bolivia itinerary

I'd visit Lake Titicaca from La Paz, spending a night in Copacabana or continuing directly to Isla del Sol. It's also a natural stop if you're travelling overland between Bolivia and Peru.

Sucre

(pronounced: SOO-kreh)

Sucre was my favourite city in Bolivia to explore on foot. After some of the country's harsher high-altitude landscapes, I loved being somewhere greener and gentler, where I could spend an afternoon wandering without every outing feeling like an expedition.

The historic centre is beautifully cohesive, with whitewashed buildings, tiled roofs, churches, courtyards, and leafy plazas appearing around almost every corner. 

I particularly enjoyed finding viewpoints above the city, where the white buildings and red roofs spread across the valley below.

Sucre also felt young and lived-in rather than preserved purely for visitors. Its universities bring plenty of energy to the centre, while markets and small restaurants made it easy for me to fill the gaps between sightseeing.

The strangest excursion was Cal Orck'o. Thousands of dinosaur footprints run across a huge limestone wall that now sits almost vertically, and seeing recognizable tracks climbing what looks like a cliff took my brain a moment to process.

I also enjoyed getting outside the city to experience the surrounding Indigenous communities and markets. Together, those experiences gave Sucre far more variety than I initially expected from such a beautiful colonial city.

How Sucre fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Sucre fits perfectly between central Bolivia and Potosí, with Uyuni a logical next stop after that. I'd give Sucre three nights, especially if you want a slightly slower break between Bolivia's more demanding destinations.

La Paz

(pronounced: la PAHS)

I don't think any other city in Bolivia made quite the same first impression on me as La Paz. Seeing thousands of buildings packed into a huge canyon, with El Alto sprawling across the rim above, immediately made me want to understand how this city worked.

Mi Teleférico gave me the answer better than any viewpoint could. I rode the cable cars across different parts of La Paz, watching neighbourhoods, markets, steep streets, and seemingly endless rooftops pass underneath. 

The fact that something so scenic is simply part of the daily commute here made me love it even more. I particularly enjoyed riding around sunset, when the surrounding mountains began catching the last light.

At street level, La Paz felt completely different.

I wandered through busy markets, tried street food, and explored the Witches' Market, where stalls selling medicinal plants and traditional Andean offerings provided a fascinating glimpse into beliefs that remain part of life here.

I also made time for Valle de la Luna, where narrow walking trails weave through strange eroded rock formations just outside the urban centre.

La Paz was intense, but that energy became one of my favourite things about it.

How La Paz fits into your Bolivia itinerary

La Paz is one of Bolivia's best bases, with Tiwanaku and Lake Titicaca both fitting naturally around a stay here. It's also the easiest jumping-off point for flying north to Rurrenabaque and the Amazon.

Salar de Uyuni

(pronounced: sa-LAR deh oo-YOO-nee)

Nothing prepared me for how enormous Salar de Uyuni looked once I was actually standing on it. In the dry season, the white salt crust stretched to the horizon in every direction, with almost nothing to give me a sense of distance or scale. 

I had far too much fun taking the ridiculous perspective photos that everyone comes home with.

But Uyuni became much more than the salt flat once I continued south on a three-day 4x4 tour. 

Each day seemed to bring a completely different landscape, from cactus-covered Incahuasi to barren desert, steaming geothermal areas, and brilliantly coloured lagoons.

Laguna Colorada was one of my favourite stops. Seeing flamingos feeding in that rusty-red water, surrounded by an almost empty Altiplano landscape, was one of those scenes that looked slightly unreal even while I was standing there.

The long drives were part of the experience too. Hours passed with barely another building or vehicle in sight.

I came away thinking the classic three-day trip was absolutely worth the extra time. The salt flat gets the attention, but southwestern Bolivia beyond it was just as memorable.

How Salar de Uyuni fits into your Bolivia itinerary

Uyuni fits naturally after Sucre and Potosí, creating an excellent route through southern Bolivia. If you're continuing into Chile, I'd take the three-day tour that finishes near the border and continue onward to San Pedro de Atacama.

Bolivia's distances, altitude, and dramatic changes in landscape make it a country where I think the route matters almost as much as the destinations themselves.

With one week, I'd concentrate on the highlands rather than spend too much time flying around. With two weeks, you can add the Amazon and see just how different Bolivia becomes once you leave the Andes.

Bolivia itinerary: 7 days

Why this route? For a Bolivia itinerary of 7 days, I'd focus on the country's strongest highland experiences.

You get La Paz and its markets and cable cars, Lake Titicaca, the colonial history of Sucre and Potosí, and finish with Bolivia's most famous landscape at Salar de Uyuni.

*This is a fairly fast itinerary, so I'd use a domestic flight where it saves significant travel time. If you prefer slower travel, I'd skip either Lake Titicaca or Potosí and give Sucre an extra night.

Bolivia itinerary: 2 weeks

Why this route? With a Bolivia itinerary of 2 weeks, I'd still resist trying to cover every corner of the country.

This route combines the Andes, Indigenous and colonial history, Lake Titicaca, the Amazon, and the extraordinary landscapes around Uyuni without turning the entire trip into a race between airports and bus stations.

*The biggest contrast for me would be flying between La Paz and Rurrenabaque. In less than an hour, you go from the high, dry Altiplano to tropical Amazonian greenery. I'd then finish with the three-day Uyuni tour, which gives the trip a spectacular final stretch through the salt flats, lagoons, deserts, and geothermal landscapes of southwestern Bolivia.

Why Bolivia deserves more than a stopover

Bolivia is the kind of country where I think a longer visit completely changes the experience. The salt flats might be what first gets people here, but they ended up being only one part of what I loved about travelling through the country.

Some of my favourite experiences couldn't have been more different, from riding the cable cars above La Paz and walking across Isla del Sol to spotting wildlife in the Amazon and exploring the white streets of Sucre.

I also loved how quickly the landscape changed. I went from cold, high-altitude cities and enormous salt flats to green valleys, vineyards, wetlands, and tropical rainforest, often within the same trip.

If you're visiting Bolivia for the first time, I'd resist treating Uyuni as a quick stop between Peru and Chile. Give yourself at least a week if you can, choose a few different regions, and you'll see a side of Bolivia that a salt-flat stopover alone simply can't show you.

FAQs about visiting Bolivia

Ready to explore Bolivia? Optimise Travel is here to help

Bolivia packs an extraordinary amount into one country, and deciding how to divide your time between its high-altitude cities, salt flats, Amazon rainforest, historic towns, lakes, and remote landscapes can be surprisingly difficult.

At Optimise Travel, we create personalized travel itineraries based on your interests, travel style, and budget.

Whether you're dreaming of crossing Salar de Uyuni, riding the cable cars above La Paz, walking across Isla del Sol, exploring the white streets of Sucre, discovering the history of Potosí, or heading into the Amazon from Rurrenabaque, we'll help you build an itinerary that makes the most of your time.

If you'd like help planning your trip to Bolivia, click here to learn more about our concierge travel services.

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Salto

(pronounced: SAL-toh)

Salto gave me a good excuse to slow down for a couple of days. Up in northwestern Uruguay, the landscape is dominated by open farmland, citrus groves, and the Uruguay River, but the real reason I came here was the thermal water.

And I wasn’t limited to just one or two springs. The region has several thermal complexes, so I could choose between different pools and settings rather than treating the experience as a single attraction. 

Termas del Daymán is the best-known option close to Salto, while Termas del Arapey is farther north and works well if you want to make the thermal springs a bigger part of your trip.

I particularly liked visiting in cooler weather (I went in July). Sitting outside in steaming thermal water when the air was chilly made considerably more sense to me than doing the same thing in the middle of a hot Uruguayan summer.

Salto itself is pleasantly low-key, and I wouldn't come expecting a packed sightseeing itinerary. That was part of the appeal for me. 

This was somewhere to eat well, enjoy the river, soak in the thermal pools, and give myself permission to do very little for a day or two.

How Salto fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Salto works best as a two-night northern stop, particularly if you're traveling in winter. It's around six hours from Montevideo by road, and its position near the Argentine border also makes it useful if you're continuing your trip into Argentina.

Tacuarembó

(pronounced: ta-kwa-rem-BOH)

Tacuarembó was where I got to experience Uruguay's gaucho traditions properly. This is cattle country, with rolling grassland, working estancias, horses, and a rural culture that remains an important part of Uruguayan identity.

I stayed long enough to get out into the countryside, and one of my favorite experiences was a guided horseback riding excursion. 

Riding across the open grassland gave me a much better appreciation for the scale of the landscape, but I also loved learning about the cowboy traditions that have shaped life here for generations.

A stay on a working estancia is the way I'd experience Tacuarembó. Days can involve riding, seeing how cattle are managed, or simply spending time around the property, followed by an asado cooked slowly over an open fire in the evening.

I really appreciated that the gaucho culture here didn't feel like something being recreated solely for visitors.

Horses, cattle, traditional skills, and life on the land are still part of the region's identity, and spending a few days around them gave me much more context than I would have gained from simply passing through.

If your dates are flexible, March is particularly interesting because Tacuarembó hosts the Fiesta de la Patria Gaucha, when riders and traditional groups arrive from across the region for one of Uruguay's biggest celebrations of gaucho culture.

How Tacuarembó fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Tacuarembó works best as a two or three-night detour into Uruguay's interior. I'd include it between Montevideo and the north if you want your trip to cover more than the country's cities, wineries, and coastline.

Piriápolis

(pronounced: peer-ee-AH-poh-lees)

Piriápolis had the kind of old-fashioned seaside atmosphere that made me want to slow down and wander rather than work through a sightseeing checklist.

Uruguay's first purpose-built beach resort was developed in the early 20th century by Francisco Piria, who envisioned a European-style resort on the coast.

I could still see traces of that ambition along the waterfront, particularly in the enormous Argentino Hotel overlooking the beach.

One of my favorite things to do was head up Cerro San Antonio. You can reach the top by road or take the chairlift, and the view back over the curved bay, town, and coastline was easily worth the trip up. 

Afterward, I enjoyed simply walking the waterfront promenade as the beach started to quiet down toward evening.

I also appreciated that Piriápolis felt a little more understated than nearby Punta del Este. It still had plenty of life during the summer, but I found it easier to settle into the slower beach-town rhythm here.

Two nights felt about right. That gave me time for the beach and Cerro San Antonio without turning what should be a relaxing stop into another packed itinerary.

How Piriápolis fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Piriápolis is an easy two-night stop on a coastal road trip from Montevideo toward Punta del Este and Uruguay's eastern beaches. It's also close enough to the capital to work as a short seaside escape if you don't have time for a longer coastal route.

Carmelo

(pronounced: kar-MEH-loh)

Carmelo was one of my favorite places to experience Uruguay's wine culture. The town sits beside the Río de la Plata, surrounded by vineyards and small wineries that feel a world away from the large commercial estates I’ve visited in other wine regions.

Tannat is the grape to know here. It produces deep, full-bodied red wines, typically with plenty of dark fruit and tannin, and Uruguay has made the variety very much its own.

I particularly enjoyed being able to taste it close to where the grapes were grown and compare how different producers approached the same variety.

The wineries were a big part of Carmelo's appeal for me. Many are small and family-run, and tastings often felt personal rather than polished or overly formal.

I could talk to the people producing the wine, learn about their vineyards, and pair a tasting with local cheeses, meats, or a long lunch.

There's plenty to enjoy between tastings too. The surrounding countryside is great for cycling, while the river gives Carmelo another dimension entirely. 

I loved ending the day beside the water as the light changed over the Río de la Plata and the small boats returned to shore.

How Carmelo fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Carmelo fits naturally into a southwestern Uruguay route alongside Colonia del Sacramento. I'd spend two nights here, which gives you enough time to visit a few wineries without packing them all into a single day.

Punta del Diablo

(pronounced: POON-ta del dee-AH-bloh)

The beaches were the reason I came to Punta del Diablo, and I liked that they didn't all offer the same experience.

Some were busy and full of energy, with rows of restaurants, ice cream stalls, souvenir shops, and people wandering between the village and the sand.

Others required more effort to reach, but those were often the beaches I enjoyed most. Walking a little farther could lead to long stretches of sand with far fewer people and a much wilder Atlantic feel.

That contrast made it worth exploring beyond whichever beach happened to be closest to my accommodation.

Just north of town, Santa Teresa National Park added even more coastline. The park has around 12 kilometres of beaches, including quieter stretches such as Playa del Barco, along with forest trails and the historic Fortaleza de Santa Teresa.

There's also a good reason to visit outside the traditional summer season. Between July and October, southern right whales migrate along the Rocha coast, and Punta del Diablo is one of the places where they can sometimes be spotted directly from shore.

Bottlenose dolphins can be seen in the region throughout the year too.

Back in the village, fishing boats pulled onto the sand and simple cabins among the dunes still gave me glimpses of the fishing community Punta del Diablo grew from, even when summer was in full swing.

How Punta del Diablo fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Punta del Diablo makes a great three-night stop on an eastern Uruguay road trip. December to March is best if beaches and swimming are your priority, while July to October gives you the added possibility of spotting migrating whales from the coast.

Punta del Este

(pronounced: POON-ta del ESS-teh)

Punta del Este is Uruguay's most famous resort town, and I could immediately see why it has attracted summer visitors from Argentina, Brazil, and farther afield for generations.

What I liked about the peninsula was having two very different coastlines within easy reach. Playa Mansa faces the calmer waters of the Río de la Plata, while Playa Brava faces the Atlantic and has bigger waves and a much wilder feel.

Brava is also where I went to see La Mano, the enormous fingers emerging from the sand that have become one of Uruguay's most recognizable landmarks. It's photographed constantly, but I still thought it was worth seeing for myself.

I also made time for Casapueblo, just along the coast at Punta Ballena. Created by Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró, the sprawling white building almost looks sculpted into the hillside. 

I timed my visit for late afternoon and stayed for sunset over the water, which is exactly when I'd recommend going.

Back in Punta del Este, I enjoyed walking around the marina in the evening, when the restaurants filled up and boats returned to the harbor.

This is definitely one of Uruguay's more glamorous destinations, and during the height of summer it can become extremely busy.

That's why I'd choose my dates carefully. I would happily trade the January social scene for fewer crowds and better prices in December or March.

How Punta del Este fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Punta del Este is an easy three-night addition to a coastal Uruguay itinerary.

It fits naturally between Piriápolis and the wilder beaches farther east, including Punta del Diablo, giving you a good contrast between Uruguay's polished resort coast and its more laid-back beach towns.

José Ignacio

(pronounced: hoh-SEH ig-NAH-see-oh)

José Ignacio has become one of South America's most fashionable beach destinations, but I loved that the village itself still felt remarkably small.

There are no high-rises dominating the coast, just low houses, sandy streets, a lighthouse, and two beaches on either side of the peninsula.

The beaches have very different personalities. Playa Mansa has calmer water and long stretches of sand backed by dunes, while Playa Brava faces the Atlantic and picks up considerably more surf.

I liked being able to walk between the two depending on what I felt like doing that day.

Food is a major part of the experience here. José Ignacio has attracted some exceptional restaurants, but the setting is often as memorable as the meal itself. Fresh fish, seafood, and beef are cooked over open flames, with some tables sitting right beside the sand.

My favorite evening was also one of the simplest. I had a long dinner by the beach as the sun went down, with my feet in the sand and nowhere else I needed to be.

It was one of those meals where I stopped paying attention to the time entirely, and it's probably the memory I associate most with José Ignacio.

I'd choose December or March if possible. You'll still get the summer atmosphere without quite the intensity of January, when this tiny village becomes one of the most sought-after destinations on the Uruguayan coast.

How José Ignacio fits into your Uruguay itinerary

José Ignacio pairs naturally with Punta del Este but offers a very different style of stay. I'd give it three nights before continuing east toward Rocha and Punta del Diablo, particularly if food and beaches are priorities for your Uruguay trip.

Cabo Polonio

(pronounced: KA-boh poh-LOH-nee-oh)

Getting to Cabo Polonio was part of the experience before I'd even seen the village. 

There is no normal road in, so I left the car behind at the national park entrance and climbed aboard one of the huge 4x4 trucks that carry visitors across several kilometres of sand and shifting dunes.

Eventually, the little collection of houses appeared beside the Atlantic, and I understood why Cabo Polonio has managed to retain so much of its character.

There are no paved streets or streetlights, and many properties operate with limited electricity and water. Accommodation tends to be simple too, with cabins, hostels, and small guesthouses rather than big resorts.

The lighthouse became one of my favorite places to walk. Just below the rocky point is a large colony of South American sea lions, and I could hear them before I was close enough to properly see them.

Watching them sprawled across the rocks with the Atlantic crashing behind them was easily one of my highlights here.

But Cabo Polonio became even more memorable after dark. With so little artificial lighting, the stars felt incredibly bright, and walking outside at night gave me one of the best night skies I experienced in Uruguay.

Days here were refreshingly uncomplicated. I walked the beaches, explored the dunes, watched the sea lions, and generally let the setting provide the entertainment.

Two or three nights was enough for me to experience that without making Cabo Polonio just a quick day trip.

How Cabo Polonio fits into your Uruguay itinerary

Cabo Polonio fits perfectly into an eastern coastal route between José Ignacio and Punta del Diablo. I'd give it two or three nights, especially if you want your Uruguay itinerary to include somewhere much wilder than the resort towns farther west.

Colonia del Sacramento

(pronounced: koh-LOH-nee-ah del sa-kra-MEN-toh)